Tasting Through the New Dishes at Katsuya by SBE
May 19, 2015
There are new things in store at the ever popular Japanese restaurant known as Katsuya by sbe. And in keeping with the quality of a Hollywood Katsuya experience, they’re all not only pristine in presentation, but dishes in which chefs really punch up the flavor.
The Truffle & Chive Chawanmushi comes in an elegant, painted and hollowed out eggshell – fitting for an egg custard – and three layers of truffle, all topped with a light soy. It’s a luxurious, savory starter that will get your palate going for the rest of the meal.
The Silken Tofu, while similar in texture, is completely cooling and mild in taste. The brightly colored dish is made in-house and supplemented with a mildly salty dashi gelee and topped with other condiments, including beautiful and edible flowers.
One of the shining stars of the new array of menu items is the Octopus Carpaccio, seasoned with lemon herb relish and yuzu kosho for a delicate dish of thin, tender slices imparting bright notes.
As with everything at Katsuya, there are familiar dishes made spectacular – whether through presentation and/or ingredients – and their Gyoza made with heritage Berkshire pork is just one example. They’re served with their beautifully crispy bottoms face up, intact, and forming a doily-like pattern.
Their new Albacore Mushroom dish makes for an unusual combination of ingredients, but is ultimately a savory bomb when it comes to flavor. Maitake and shimeiji are the mushrooms in play here, with flavor-soaked albacore underneath.
But you probably never had fried rice as luxurious as the A4 Wagyu variety, which is served up in a hot stone bowl. The rice is simmered in Wagyu consomme to impart the high grade beef’s flavor in all possible ways. While the highest grade (A5) would have fallen apart because of intense marbling, the tiny, cubed A4 variety serves as the perfect centerpiece for this ultra rich, delicious fried rice.
Of course, you can’t eat at Katsuya without partaking in their nigiri sushi or specialty rolls, like the namesake Special Katsuya roll. This roll leaves nothing wanting, since it has all of tuna, yellowtail, salmon, scallop, crab, avocado and rice wrapped in soy paper and cucumber, with wasabi ponzu on the side.
You’ll definitely want to top off your Katsuya by SBE experience with dessert. Their Mizumono is a great pick, with black sesame sponge cake evoking coral islands and kalamansi gel and white choclate-miso ice cream providing the sweet spots. It’s a textural and tasteful study in avant garde desserts, and a perfect way to send you off.
6300 Hollywood Blvd.
Esther Tseng is a freelance food and drink writer. She has contributed to Eater, Thrillist, LA Tourism, Visit West Hollywood, Serious Drinks, and more. She practices Pilates, spins and snowboards to counter all the calories she consumes and loves to travel, whether for work or leisure.